Ornamental Trees Menu
The top 100 varieties of apples, pears, peaches, plums and cherries; available on semi-vigorous,
semi-dwarf and dwarfing rootstocks. Ready trained trees including fans, espaliers, step-overs
and cordons. Soft fruit, hazelnuts, medlars, quinces, figs, damsons, grapes and more...
Trees native to the British Isles. Including the ever popular Silver Birch and Mountain Ash,
(Rowan), and the majestic Beech, Oak and Scots Pine.
All types of hedging available, both bare rooted and in containers.
A choice of over 250 varieties of the popular and more unusual ornamental tree from Acers
to Zelcovas. From the very small for a tub on the patio to much larger trees; available from 1
year old to semi-mature, from bare root to large containers. 95% of the trees we sell are
grown on our 15 hectare nursery, making this one of the best ranges of varieties and sizes
you will find anywhere.
Shrubs, climbers and bamboos, many in more mature sizes, all are container grown.
All the extras you need to make your tree planting a success, and the tools to make it happen.
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Comments Ornamental Tree Nurseries has a comprehensive list of trees, many of them rare and unusual…

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Planting Trees

Container Trees(grown in pots, airpots or large polybags) and Rootballed Trees (dug out of the ground with a rootball)

  1. Trees sold in containers can be planted at any time of year. However, spring and autumn should be preferred to high summer. Rootballs can only be planted from November to March.
  2. Dig a planting hole the same depth as the pot or rootball of the tree and loosen the soil in the bottom. The planting hole should be wide enough to leave a 5cm-10cm gap when the tree is placed inside; however, if your soil is poor it is advisable to make the hole larger. Some authorities believe a square hole is better!
  3. Remove the pot and place the tree in the hole so that it is upright and the surface of the compost is flush with, or slightly raised above, the soil level of your site. You should not remove the hessian bag or wire cage from a rootballed tree, though you may wish to untie the knot at the collar. If your soil is poor it may be advisable to sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi around the rootmass, to improve establishment.
  4. Mix the planting compost, (or home made compost), 50:50 with the soil removed from the hole and use the mix to refill around the tree, firming gently but firmly. Remove excess soil, do not bank the soil up over the collar or graft union of the tree as this can cause rotting and be fatal.
  5. Place the stake at an angle to the tree to avoid penetrating the rootmass and knock in until it is firm, ensuring the top of the stake is adjacent to the tree. Tie the tree firmly to the stake using a tree tie, we advise using a buckle tie as this can be adjusted if required and has a spacer to avoid the stake chaffing the tree.
  6. Container trees carry sufficient nutrients to last the season but growmore or similar fertilizer may be sprinkled around the base of the tree if required. If you are planting during warm or dry weather water several times a week; for the first few months after planting you should also water during hot and dry weather. A tree planted in the autumn should need little, if any, watering after it has been planted. The stake should stay in place for approx. 12 months, after which time it can be removed.
 

   
Bare Root Trees (grown in open ground and dug up with no soil around the roots)
Figure 1
Figure 1
  1. Trees sold as bare roots can only be planted from November to March, when they are dormant. However, trees planted in November and December will establish better than those planted in March.
  2. Your bare root tree will arrive in a black bag to protect the roots from drying out. If you are not planting in a few days then remove the bag and ‘heel in’ the tree in some soft garden soil, make sure all the roots are covered, a good covering of soil will protect from frost.
  3.  IN COLD WEATHER THE ROOTS MUST BE PROTECTED FROM FROST. The tree can be removed from the bag and heeled in to some soft soil for this purpose, or store in a garage or shed with the bag in place. To plant you will need a stake and tie, planting compost or garden compost/manure, lump hammer and spade. (fig. 1)
  4. If planting in a lawn remove the turf from the planting area. Dig a hole the same depth as the roots of the tree and loosen the soil in the bottom. The planting hole should be wide enough to accommodate the roots when the tree is placed inside; however, if your soil is poor it is advisable to make the hole larger. Some research suggests a square hole is better.
  5. Knock the stake in firmly, upright and just off-centre in the planting hole. Trim off any broken and damaged roots. Place your tree in the hole and ensure there is enough room for the tree roots to spread and that the graft union is above ground level. Tie loosely to the stake and ensure the tree is upright. If your soil is poor it may be advisable to sprinkle mycorrhizal fungi around the  roots, to improve establishment. (fig. 2)
  6. Mix some of the soil from the planting hole 50:50 with planting compost and refill around the roots, ensuring there are no air gaps. Fill the hole, firming gently, and making sure the graft union is still above soil level. Remove excess soil. Growmore or similar fertilizer may be sprinkled around the base of the tree if required. (fig. 3 & 4)&
  7. If you are planting during dry weather water well in the first week. A tree planted in the autumn should need little, if any, watering after it has been planted, spring planted trees will need more water. All trees will need watering in the first summer during dry spells. However, if the ground is damp do not water excessively.
  8. The stake should stay in place for approx. 12 months, after which time it can be removed.
Figure 2
Figure 2
Figure 3
Figure 3
Figure 4
Figure 4

 

 
   
Flowering Tree
Ornamental Tree Nurseries LTD, Cobnash, Kingsland, Herefordshire HR6 9QZ
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